tuanzhang01

08.04.2010 um 06:10 Uhr

The strong sales at established stores

The strong sales at established stores for Tiffany & Co. is raising and Tiffany coverage of the luxury jeweler with a consumer buying rating.
The shares for jewelry market of Atlas cube lock pendant jewelry rose $1.86, or 4.8 percent, to $40.36 in afternoon trading.
At the same time, Citi Investment Research analyst Kimberly Greenberger expects Tiffany to post Money Clip growth in the fourth quarter after gaining market share. In this situation, many smaller jewelers were forced to Return to Tiffany Heart tag pendant their doors during the recession as consumer demand remained weak.
Specifically, Greenberger said that at least 5 percent of the $60 billion U.S. jewelry market is "up for grabs" in 2010.
"In our view, Tiffany can grab at Folded heart pendant 2 percent of this $3 billion slice over time, given its strong brand recognition and trust," Greenberger wrote in a client note.
Also, Tiffany will benefit in the fourth quarter from lower prices for diamonds, Tiffany 1837™ Bar key ring and silver.
There are also opportunities to expand domestically and Paloma's Tenderness Heart pendant, as well, she added.
In fact, the tiffany stores overseas have do a great contribution to the total sales of tiffany jewelry.

08.04.2010 um 06:09 Uhr

Tiffany can grab at Folded heart pendant

The strong sales at established stores for Tiffany & Co. is raising and Tiffany coverage of the luxury jeweler with a consumer buying rating.
The shares for jewelry market of Atlas cube lock pendant jewelry rose $1.86, or 4.8 percent, to $40.36 in afternoon trading.
At the same time, Citi Investment Research analyst Kimberly Greenberger expects Tiffany to post Money Clip growth in the fourth quarter after gaining market share. In this situation, many smaller jewelers were forced to Return to Tiffany Heart tag pendant their doors during the recession as consumer demand remained weak.
Specifically, Greenberger said that at least 5 percent of the $60 billion U.S. jewelry market is "up for grabs" in 2010.
"In our view, Tiffany can grab at Folded heart pendant 2 percent of this $3 billion slice over time, given its strong brand recognition and trust," Greenberger wrote in a client note.
Also, Tiffany will benefit in the fourth quarter from lower prices for diamonds, Tiffany 1837™ Bar key ring and silver.
There are also opportunities to expand domestically and Paloma's Tenderness Heart pendant, as well, she added.
In fact, the tiffany stores overseas have do a great contribution to the total sales of tiffany jewelry.

05.04.2010 um 05:49 Uhr

In their descriptions of the area and its past

The visitor to Harper's Ferry is doubly paid, for he not only feels the thrilling impulses which come from a contemplation of the movement of the first martyr of a true and not a spurious American freedom, but the natural beauty of the place appeals strongly to the most refined and exalted part of his being.11

Though nature's aesthetic appeal in the Gilded Age has been primarily seen as a retreat from the encroaching arms of industrialization, such descriptions of Harpers Ferry speak to African Americans' broader effort to infuse natural surroundings with historical consciousness, and helps explain why promoters of reduced tiffany earrings travel might have seen a potentially fertile market in surrounding black communities.

In their descriptions of the area and its past, contemporary black writers sought to recapture a past that was, in the midst of the nation's retreat from the promises of emancipation and citizenship, in danger of receding from blacks' collective memory. Nature was evoked to articulate historical and cultural consciousness, to give meaning to a violent past and uncertain future, and to channel order from the chaos of urban life:

The spirit of freedom has always dwelt among the mountains, and when old John Brown looked upon the mountains which rise in majesty round about the place, the spirit of liberty stirred afresh within him, here he resolved to do and dare and die, if need be, that his fellow man might come forth from the chattel house of bondage.

J. Max Barber, founding member of the Niagara Movement and attendee at the reduced tiffany pendants Ferry conference, reflected on the area's perfect marriage of aesthetics and racial consciousness:

The scenery and the history in and around this little mountain village possess an interest that is unusual. I have heard men speak of the peculiar sensation, the thrill which comes to one as he stands in the shadow of some mighty structure or on a spot where some great deed was wrought that perceptibly advanced the world. Men have journeyed to the other side of the world to drink a draught of air that played around a Calvary, a Trafalgar or a Runnymeade, and they have felt well-paid for their trouble. I too have known what it meant to meditate at Valley Forge, Queenstown and Gettysburg. But I must confess that I had never yet felt as I felt at Harpers Ferry.13

Barber, like many other African American visitors, forged an emotional relationship with the town and surrounding area based in equal parts on collective memory, personal contemplation, and observance. In his 1885 commencement address to the graduates of Storer College, the black nationalist and Episcopal priest Alexander Crummell noted that the town was "full of the most thrilling memories in the history of our race."14 The town's peaceful serenity and stunning scenery encapsulated, in many post-Civil War blacks' minds, its status as an African American Heu de m茅moire on the nation's postbellum landscape. In so doing, such writers drew upon the abolitionist literary motif of evoking landscape imagery in contemplating Brown's sale tiffany necklaces. As the literary scholar Kristen Proehl notes, in the years following Brown's raid both Frederick Douglass and Thomas Wentworth Higginson waxed at length on Brown's "knowledge of the mountain landscape," and his subsequent "transform[ation of] the natural world into a tool that could be used to dismantle the institution of slavery."16

In the decades following emancipation, John Brown's siege of a federal armory in pursuit of blacks' freedom became a dominant image in nascent civil rights iconography. Brown came to represent not simply an uncompromising demand for full equality and the courage to act on one's convictions, but moreover African Americans' hope for social relations governed irrespective of color. Indeed, for many African Americans of this era, the most famous and beloved paintings of Brown were not the ones that portrayed him as a fire-breathing, maniacal traitor, but rather as the man who, as he was led from the Charlestown, West Virginia, courthouse to his execution, stopped to kiss a black child on the cheek. As the historian Benjamin Quarles notes, Brown was more than another hero in the pantheon of black history: "his was a name to conjure with, almost a presence to be summoned."17 Likewise, Harpers Ferry the place became, in the writings of abolitionists and postemancipation black scholars, a spatial metaphor of man's fulfillment of God's will.18

Beginning in the 1880s, Soloman Brown, an employee of the Smithsonian Institution and shop for tiffany accessories of African American history, annually led excursion groups to the federal armory at Harpers Ferry on the anniversary of Brown's raid.19 It was here, such groups were reminded, where brave black souls and white Americans of conscience cast the first stone against a dreaded institution that had, for generations, robbed them and their ancestors of their freedom and their heritage. Popularly identified with many black Americans as the site where the nation took its first steps to reclaim all that had been vanquished under bondage, the fort also came to symbolize African Americans' cultural rebirth in freedom. Pieces of its exterior became treasured keepsakes collected by black visitors, representing a bookend counterpart to the slave's shackles in the material history of slavery and emancipation. Frederick Douglass, for instance, kept a brick from the fort on the mantle of his home, Cedar Hill, in Washington, D.C.20 And in an undated letter to Storer College's president, Nathan Brackett, the famed civil rights orator implored the school to mark "this sacred spot" with a monument to John Brown "so that it may tell ... coming generations of what benevolent self-sacrifice in the cause of Justice and Liberty our human nature is capable. We owe it to ourselves and to mankind," he added, "to rescue this spot on which this deed was done from doubt and oblivion."21

Despite Brown's quick ascendancy to mythic status, Harpers Ferry did not emerge as an excursion and vacation destination for African Americans simply because it was weighted with historical significance. Rather, African Americans' attraction to Harpers Ferry during the summer months stemmed from the town's commercial exploitation by a burgeoning tourism industry that traded in Americans' insatiable desire to fashion new identities (or reclaim old ones trampled underfoot by war and socioeconomic upheaval) through crafted visions of shop for tiffany bracelets past. By the late nineteenth century, pilgrimages to battlefields and national shrines had emerged as one of the chief destinations for the nation's growing numbers of excursionists and vacationers. Civil War battlefields such as Gettysburg capitalized on Americans' desire to commemorate the dead and reconcile sectional divisions. Families, veterans' groups, and excursion parties of all stripes boarded railroad cars and swarmed into this newly minted hallowed ground looking for the chance to collect relics from battlefields, reenact Pickett's charge, or simply drink and lounge with friends in the Pennsylvania countryside.22

The success of Gettysburg in fashioning itself as a travel destination that combined pleasure with collective commemoration no doubt influenced Harpers Ferrians' marketing strategies. Yet it was the downstream commemorative destination Mount Vernon with which Storer College contrasted its surroundings when appealing to black audiences. One advertisement for summer boarding at Harpers Ferry in one of Washington's African American newspapers read:

For the money ($4 dollars a week) good board is furnished. The quick easy access to Washington City renders it twice a blessing to those whose time and purse will not allow them to go far or to anymore fashionable places. This resort ought to be crowded from the opening to the close. As Mount Vernon is the Mecca of the whites so Harper's Ferry should be the Mecca of the colored American citizen.23

02.04.2010 um 07:11 Uhr

THE 'ABAYA-AS-FASHION

THE 'ABAYA-AS-FASHION

A show by the fashion label Al-Motahajiba held in Doha in 2003 featured a procession of 'abayas that appeared uniform in style, as the models veiled and de-veiled themselves on stage to entertain the audience. The de-veiling act in this context was an ironic gesture with reference to the fashion brand's display of its products, since "Al-Motahajiba" translates as "the veiled woman." The fashion show depicted the models continuously performing this act, and all 'abayas on display were black and long, their only variation being the fabric. This performance can arguably be seen as a sartorial strategy, whereby the 'abaya is brought into play on stage as if to relieve the monotonous procession of clothes for the most part similar in design.

The 'abaya-and veiling practices generally-may appear to preclude the prospect of hierarchy, since, as this fashion show illustrates, uniformity is heightened among the wearers. There is, however, a paradox between this assumption and the rendition of the veil-as-fashion. Drawing on Gunter Gebauer and Christoph Wulf's notion of "social mimesis," which "designates the process in which rivalries arise between individuals and groups sharing the same goal of action," Ossman explains how this notion "brings to mind the strategies tiffany rings for sale some muhajibat [veiled women] who claim that their dress, like school uniforms, eliminates competition among women" (2002, 57). In the case of the 'abayaas- fashion, however, the notion of social mimesis is further honed, since the "approximation of individuals to each other, their becoming similar" (57) operates within a specific ideological framework: the notion of "equivalence" relates not only to wearing the 'abaya but furthermore to the color black. Th us, in this instance, competition is founded on a complicity within veiling practices, as well as on the way the wearer of the 'abaya distinguishes herself in relation to others "on a single plane" (57), namely those who wear the same color.

An interesting case in light of this latter contention is the Sweet Lady fashion show held in Dubai in 2003. The first model appears wearing a head veil and an 'abaya, the front of which is dominated by an elaborate floral sequined design, while the rest remains black. Further, the 'abaya is streamlined and slightly tiffany earrings for sale around the waist (Figure 2). Another design shows a cut that gathers at the waist and flares into a full hem (Figure 3). Here, the model does not wear a head veil but rather carries a fan which, like the design around the hem and lower-center of the 'abaya, is made up of peacock feathers. Moreover, the sleeves are puffed and full-bodied, unlike the streamlined sleeves shown in Figure 2. While these 'abayas are considerably extravagant, the colors nonetheless remain subdued, consistent with the black ground.

In contrast, a third design incorporates vibrant colors, with long bright fuchsia tiffany necklaces on sale and a large pink flower attached to the model's chest (Figure 4, left ). Similarly, a pattern of bright red flowers presents a contrast to the black ground, while the head veil displays a related pattern across the whole fabric as opposed to only on its borders (Figure 4, right). Instances of patterned fabric or images superimposed on the black fabric itself are also manifest, as is the case with the image of a shark in Figure 5.

These designs refer primarily to ways in which each 'abaya can be distinguished from the others, thereby suggesting endless possible variations on the black 'abaya. However, the extravagance of the designs belies a contradictory notion of the limitations inherent in renewing the 'abaya. The 'abayas in Figures 2 and 3 refer to a formal style of dress, as they are constructed with wide hemlines and, in one case, puffed sleeves. Here, designers exploit the 'abaya's inherent similarity to formal dress-its length and black color. Deviation cheap tiffany accessories the 'abaya is thus ultimately minimal. The designs in Figures 4 and 5 at first appear to present the contrary, since they suggest how images on clothing are obscured by the necessity to wear an 'abaya on top. The shark in Figure 5, for example, transports onto the 'abaya itself a bold and centralized design reminiscent of those more commonly seen on T-shirts. But while such patterns and images are visually prominent, they are nonetheless manifested within certain boundaries, such that their contribution to the fabric never constitutes a complete deviation from the color black. At the same time, however, these examples also reveal how "stylistic deviance" (Gaines 1990, 206) is engendered as a result of having continuously to renew the 'abaya in light of its restrictions.

IMMODERATE EXCESS AND THE PERPETUAL RESTORATION OF THE 'ABAYA

In order to examine the antagonism between piety and fashion as far as veiling is concerned, I now turn to a discussion of the relationship between the 'abaya-as-fashion and ideological constructions of femininity as defined by two prominent clerics within Sunni religious popular thought.4 Critical to this discussion is the Islamic concept of tabarruj (immoderate excess), which Al-Mawrid defines as a woman choosing

to adorn herself, groom herself, bedeck herself, preen herself, primp, toilet, dress up, smarten up, spruce up, doll up, to make up, paint and powder, use or apply cosmetics, put on make-up, to display her charms. (Baalbaki 1992, 268)

In a lecture concerning "The Legitimacy of the Veil" (Mashru'iya al-hijab), the Saudi religious cleric 'Abd al-'Aziz ibn 'Abd Allah ibn Baaz, also known as Bin Baz, contends that zina (adornment), which he labels "prohibited," is defined as "everything which is loved by a man or a woman and which draws attention tiffany for sale it is natural or acquired."5 Following this, he advocates that women should veil their heads, bodies, and faces, "except that which is apparent," as expressed in the Qur'anic verse in Sura al-Nur (24:31), which he interprets as referring to "outer clothing."6

The religious cleric Dr. Yusuf al-Qaradawy offers a different argument, contending that "Islam has set its codes for the woman... [to] guard her femininity and acknowledge its needs so as not to repress it." He provides "a rough summation of Islam's attitude to femininity," which states:

Islam protects femininity to keep the stream of tenderness and beauty running. For this reason some of the things that men are forbidden to do are permissible for women. So the woman can wear gold and pure silk; hence the Hadith [the reported sayings and deeds of the Prophet], "These two (substances) are prohibited for the men of my nation and allowed for its women." [...] The permission to use things that suit women is supported by forbidding them from handling things that go against their femininity, such as men's wear, movement and behaviour in general. A woman is not to wear a man's garment; a man is not to wear a woman's garment. The Prophet (blessings and peace be upon him) says: "Allah condemns the man who dresses like a woman and the woman who dresses like a man." (al-Qaradawy 1993)

Al-Qaradawy further argues that "Allah's Religion protects [woman's] morals and decency, guards her reputation and dignity, and defends her chastity against evil thoughts." He adds that, "in order to achieve these noble objectives, Islam makes it incumbent on the woman to lower the eyes and preserve chastity and purity." In this context, he asserts that a woman needs to "preserve a decent, unrevealing manner of dress and ornamentation, all without being oppressive towards her," and he too refers to the Qur'anic verse (24:31) that requires women "not to show off their adornment except that which is apparent." He continues,

The visible or apparent ornament that the verse refers to has been interpreted to be inclusive of kohl, the finger ring, the face, the two hands and, some exegetes and jurisprudents establish, the two feet. (al-Qaradawy 1993)

As evinced by the clerical arguments above, the stipulation, "except that which is apparent," and the concept of adornment (zina) as forbidden continue to be disputed and multiply interpreted, with definitions of "the apparent" ranging extensively from kohl to outer clothing. The clerical arguments also reveal, however, that the phenomenon of the 'abaya-as-fashion stands in uneasy relation to the ideological construction of femininity as defined by the Islamic patriarchal hegemonic order, most significantly in relation to the censure of female display.

01.04.2010 um 07:56 Uhr

As a feminist culture

As a feminist culture, at Twin Oaks we tend to disregard traditional gender roles and behavior. Women and men choose their roles In the community based on their Interests, strengths, and passions, not on any -one else's preconceived notions.... We all wear clothing we find comfortable-pants for working In, skirts for coolness or festivity-heedless of mainstream Ideas of "acceptable" fashion choices. Our commitment to fostering a supportive and joyful environment for all people-women, men, lesbians, gays, and tiffany rings for sale-Is an Integral part of Twin Oaks Community."

These words, more than any others on the Twin Oaks website, offered me hope.

I had just completed a full year en femme-what is known in transgender tiffany earrings for sale as the Real Life Test, even acquiring a California state ID labeling my sex as "F"-and although I was living in the ultraliberal San Francisco area, my trans life was no cakewalk. Whether it was my age (almost 50), my scant resume (ten years as a middle-class housewife), or my biological "destiny" (a woman cursed with male hormones), the job market was anything but liberal. Please, oh please, I pleaded with fate, don't let me turn 50 behind a cash register!

Who would take a chance on an old tranny recently pink-slipped from an increasingly untenable marriage?

How about "utopia?" I figured an egalitarian community proclaiming feminist ideals would offer me a shot at a new life-perhaps even a happy life.

I was fatigued by the daily discipline to "pass" as female-a full hour shaving body hair, tiffany necklaces on sale hour applying lotions and makeup, topped off by 30 minutes putting together an outfit and polishing my nails. And, however presentable I became, it was back to a vampire's crypt twelve hours later. The expense of the upkeep was staggering, especially in trendy Silicon Valley where $200 designer jeans are considered mere Starbucks attire. And what for? Just to hear, "Thank you, ma'am," at Victoria's Secret? For 90-minute increments of "affection" from randy trannychasers?

Perhaps Twin Oaks was a place I could be fern without the artifice, I surmised. After all, however overcompensating my presentation-skirts, stockings, and dangly earrings being a necessity for survival in the transphobic mainstream-I'm no Barbie bimbo. I'm down with scorched-earth feminists like Andrea Dworkin, I'm inspired by gender liberationists like Riki Wilchins, I dance to Yoko Ono records, and I know Anita Hill did the right thing. My Marxist heart isn't exactly seduced by the trans "community" where the weary old class system is reconfigured in the terms "non-op" and "post-op."

But "utopia" wasn't a cakewalk either-at least immediately. I visited in August 2007, confident I'd cheap tiffany accessories my freedom to be pink, but to my mortification I was informed the community was not especially impressed by the me they met. Twin Oaks suggested I visit again. Sensitive to prejudice as all transgendered people are, I read between the lines when perusing my input, focusing bitterly on one woman's stated concerns of my having "body image issues." Lady, I thought, if your chest sprouted hairs like a werewolf, you'd probably have a few "issues" too.

Trans isn't all I am. I am not necessarily just my body. I'm actually looking for a world where I can put less energy into "being" trans. As I so often tell other transgendered women cooing over heels and swooning over corsets, it's not how you look; it's what you do. Fashion, I believe, is narcissistic; femininity is caring about others. Philosophers and feminists have said, correctly I think, that the feminine impulse is toward social connection: family, friends-in a word, community. It seemed intuitive for me to seek the caring, income-sharing feminist culture of Twin Oaks. I wanted to get out of myself-and into something wider, deeper, more enduring. Like gardening.

So, back for a second visit I went, attempting to tone down my pink presentation (although it's universally acknowledged that trannies emphasize gender clich茅s under duress). Although I can only offer conjecture, I believe some resistance to my membership arose from precedent; apparently the only transwoman who had lived at Twin Oaks before me was described to me as a classic wolf in sheep's clothing-a perfumed, swishing male chauvinist pig. Determined to overcome the unwanted association, I worked harder, listened more carefully and preened less frequently. Community, I kept reminding myself, means contributing selflessly, acting with empathetic compassion-and staying mellow.

For the most part, the members of Twin Oaks helped me feel right at home.

I heard more encouraging words ("Thanks for keeping the kitchen so clean"; "I appreciate you doing so many hammock setups"; even "Groovy outfit there") during my six weeks of visiting Twin Oaks than I had heard during my ten-year marriage. Although there were a few holdouts, the overwhelming majority of communitarians referred to me by my preferred pronoun. Considering I abandoned shaving my arms and wearing makeup, that showed real courtesy. With the exception of a couple of feminists, perhaps still ideologically swayed by the notion of a "transsexual empire," the queers especially rolled out the pink carpet for my membership bid.

Like Hillary, I nevertheless had some opposition to surmount.

I was crestfallen to receive a "gift" of Barbie merchandise from a feminist woman I particularly admired. (I returned the gesture by giving her a Yoko Ono Imagine Peace button). I heard it said that one person could never consider anyone with a five o'clock shadow to be a "real" woman. (Would I ever say hairy armpits made her a man?) Sometimes a comment on my appearance ("Well, aren't you looking bright today!") was phrased in the italics of a sly putdown. Most discouraging was the evening I returned to the communal laundry room where my freshly washed and labeled pink outfits had been mischievously dumped on the floor and hidden. Sigh.

Still, that's a far cry from Boys Don't Cry! Hell, it was nothing compared to the indignities I endured during my ten-year marriage ("We're not going out with you in that skirt!"). Compared to the multitudes of smiles and hugs I received during my visits, the little barbs were a drop in the bucket. I was up for it-determined to warm all skeptical hearts, at least in good time. Imagine my delight when, finally accepted as a provisional member, I arrived, suitcase in tow, to hear the words "welcome home" repeated sweetly to me throughout that dramatic first day. Significantly, a member who voted against my membership simply-but sincerely-said to me, "good morning."

It sure felt like home. And that was only the beginning.

I couldn't believe my ears the day I heard another member, who was working with me and a tiffany for sale, say, "Ask Calliope, she knows how to do that." My confidence was in rapid ascent. Soon enough, I was muscling in on Commie Clothes, the communal free store, sorting through blouses and shirts and stringing up holiday lights to make it look like a fab boutique. Unlike my marriage, where meals were prepared, served, and cleaned up without audible recognition, in community there's always someone with a positive comment responding to however humble or tentative an endeavor. It makes me reach higher. As Helen Reddy sang, "I come back even stronger, not a novice any longer, 'cause you've deepened the conviction in my soul."

Twin Oaks is a busy little town. The sight of "some ugly broad" in a pink miniskirt doesn't carry shock value for very long. Gender drama is transitory. There are hammocks to make, dinners to prepare, commercial tofu to process, weeds to yank out of the garden. Here, it's a real Real Life Test every day. Soon enough I transcend my trans, content that in a short time I have gone from Hedwig to comrade. In becoming-day by day-just another communard, I am permitted the luxury to pass on "passing." I can even get in touch with my masculine self-a rare opportunity in the transgender community, where hierarchies of gender presentation carry strict censures of behavior.

Would I recommend community to other transgendered folks? I would say don't expect Utopia-but don't anticipate transphobia, either. I believe it comes down to an individual-by-individual interaction. Versatility is probably the single most important quality anyone of any gender needs to thrive in community. For the gurls, there's a place for stiletto heels (dance nights)-but keep those Big Chucks for garden shifts. For the bois, you can macho all you want lifting heavy things-but you get extra points for touchy-feely talk at the dinner table. "Both Sides Now" works well. Role-playing doesn't go far in community; all too soon, you are you-and that's cool.

Twin Oaks's "disregard [for] traditional gender roles and behavior" has eased-and edified-my particular trans journey. Woman power! And I believe I've shown Twin Oaks that transgendered people are just people-infinitely arrayed. I'm very happy Twin Oaks and I overcame our nervous few first dates and are now working on a real relationship.

I offer very warm thanks to Hawina for guiding me so conscientiously through the membership processes